Friday, October 12, 2007

and we are off to Mudanjiang

this is the background information I received before leaving for Mudanjiang.
- it's cold
- it's close to the North Korean border (awesome!!)
- it has the world's largest Bear Bile Farm *
- it's China's version "of like Tulsa, Oklahoma" - from someone at dinner Thursday night discussing it.
- tourists thought it was a cruel joke for Bill to be taking us along.

* info taken from the US Humane Society:

There are about 7,000 bears on bear-bile farms in China. The captive animals are used to supply the voracious Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) market. Bear bile has been an ingredient in TCM for thousands of years, but intensive bear farming only came into existence in the 1980s when China's supply of wild bears began running low. The farms, however, have created a new set of problems.

Milking

Usually bile is extracted from the bears' gallbladders twice a day through a surgically implanted tube. The process, called "milking," produces from .338 to .676 oz. (10–20 ml.) of bile each time. Milking is clearly painful for the bears, who are often seen moaning and chewing their paws during the process.

Sometimes the farmers just push a hollow steel stick through a bear's abdomen, and the bile runs into a basin under the cage. Surgery to insert the tube or stick is seldom performed by veterinarians (very few bear farms employ them). Roughly half of the bears die from infections or other complications.

The catheter has been banned as a method for bile extraction (although bears have still been seen with catheters in them). In recent years, the government has been promoting the so-called humane "free dripping" method, which sees a permanent hole or fistula carved into the bear's abdomen and gall bladder, from which bile "freely drips" out. The damage caused by bile leaking back into the abdomen, together with infection from the permanently open hole is as bad, if not worse, than the older style methods and causes a high mortality on the farms. Because the body's natural instinct is to repair itself, farmers' have had a difficult time keeping the hole in the abdomen open. This has led to illegal use of a small Perspex catheter which keeps the hole permanently open and infected, inflicting severe pain on the bears.

It's important to note that the herbal and synthetic alternatives to bear bile are 100% equal to bear bile in effectiveness. Additionally, veterinary evidence suggests that bile from farmed bears is often contaminated with pus and other detritus as a result of the conditions in which it is extracted.

Cages

On most bear bile farms, the bears are housed in a cage that is about 2.6 feet x 4.2 feet x 6.5 feet—so small that these 110- to 260-pound animals can barely sit up or turn around. The bars pressing against their bodies leave scars, some as long as four feet. Some bears have head wounds from banging them against the bars. Many of the bears have broken and worn teeth from biting the bars.

Cubs and Older Bears

Captive-bred cubs are taken from their mothers at three months. (In the wild, they have been observed staying with their mothers for up to 18 months.) Infant mortality is high. Captive mothers often eat their young, a behavior attributed to the stress of captivity because it seldom occurs in the wild. Some farms train cubs to perform in circuses (riding a bicycle, boxing, or walking a tightrope) until they are about 18 months old. Milking of the gallbladder begins at three years. Bears can produce bile longer than 5-10 years. Some bears arriving at the Animals Asia Moon Bear Rescue Center have been in cages for 20 years or more, still producing bile at the time of their surrender.

Gallbladders can be worth much more than $150 USD depending on where they are sold. We have no fixed figures for the price of gallbladders in China, but many investigations have put it at much higher than $150 USD. Once smuggled to Japan and Korea, they can fetch several thousand dollars

Once they stop producing bile (between five and ten years of age), bears are either allowed to die from starvation or illness, or they are killed so the farm can sell their paws (one quoted price was $250 USD each) and gallbladders ($150 USD each).

"Model" Farms

The World Society for the Protection of Animals (WSPA) sent investigators to 11 bear farms in China. At two model Chinese government farms, WSPA investigators were told that a smaller cage was used for the twice daily milking, but a cage large enough to allow the bear to stand and turn around was used the rest of the time. Still, practically all the bears had injuries from rubbing against bars.

Bear Bile—the Wonder Drug

Bile acid—ursodeoxycholic acid (UDCA)—has been popular in TCM for about 3,000 years. Unfortunately for them, bears produce more of it than any other mammal. Bile is excreted by the liver and stored in the gallbladder, from which it is released into the stomach to help digest food. Bear bile is marketed as a treatment for a staggering array of human maladies, from cardiac illness to impotence to sore eyes. You can buy it in almost any form: pills and powders, ointments, lozenges, wines, and shampoos. But some practitioners of TCM use herbal and synthetic alternatives to bear bile that are less expensive and more readily available.

China's Market

In 1999, a Chinese official reported that 7,002 Asiatic black bears were being held on 247 farms in China. (China is the major source of farmed bear bile. Sources indicate that there are 4,012 captive bears in Vietnam, a steep increase from the 1,059 reported in 1992 when the captive bear issue first emerged there. Over 90% of captive bears in Vietnam are Asiatic Black Bears. 85% of bear farms keep bears for bile tapping, while another 15% are for display only.

In Korea, the South Korean government may have made bile extraction illegal, but another method of bear farming is now gaining steam. WSPA and Green Korea United estimate that 1800 bears are being kept on farms. It is legal for farmers to slaughter them when they reach 10 years of age and extract their gallbladders.

Species at Risk

There are eight species of bear in the world. All but the giant panda are threatened by the trade in gallbladders and bile products. The species most targeted is the Asiatic black bear, classified as endangered by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora. Because Asiatic black bears are listed on CITES Appendix I, it is illegal for China to engage in international trade in their parts. But it's impossible to tell whether a gallbladder or bile has been taken from an Asiatic black bear or from an American black bear, a species that can be internationally traded. So Asiatic black bear parts are slipping into the international market disguised as parts from their American relatives.

The Threat to Wild Bear Populations

It's no secret that products from wild bears are sold in China. Although the Chinese government claims that captive breeding is successful, bear farms regularly restock with wild bears. The farms pay the equivalent of $280 to $400 for a wild-caught cub—as much as ten times the monthly wage of a restaurant worker.

It's hard to get a fix on how many bears are living in the wild in China. In 1997, the Ministry of Forestry reported the number was 46,530. By 1999, the International Union for the Conservation of Nature estimated there were fewer than 20,000. The decline of Asiatic black bear populations in China has endangered other bear species: wild bears are being killed for parts and viscera throughout Asia, North America, and South America.

Smuggling

Despite international laws protecting bears, the illegal trade in bear bile and gallbladder thrives. There's no lack of smugglers willing to move the products across national borders. Smugglers have been caught with whole gallbladders dipped in chocolate (attempting to pass them off as chocolate figs) or packed in coffee to obscure the smell. WSPA investigators tell of bile farm owners admitting to illegally exporting products to Japan, Korea, the Philippines, and Singapore.

CITES

All bear species are listed under CITES Appendices, either on Appendix I (no international trade is allowed) or Appendix II (regulated international trade is allowed with proper permits). The differing international legal statuses for bear parts in trade, combined with the impossibility of distinguishing between species parts, make it difficult to enforce national or international bear-protection laws.

Despite the prevalence of illegal trade in bear gallbladders and bile products, China promotes the idea that it can maintain a bear farming industry that is both sustainable and humane. To that end, the CITES Management Authority in China created a list of standards for bear farms. The idea is that farms meeting the standards could be registered with CITES and allowed to trade bear products internationally.

Five Hundred Bears to Sanctuary

In July 2000, the Chinese government signed an agreement to deliver (over five years) 500 bears to the Animals Asia Foundation, which would provide them with veterinary care, rehabilitation, and sanctuary. The bears would be taken from the most primitive farms in the Sichuan province, which the government would then shut down. In the following ten years, the program would be expanded into other provinces. The estimated cost for building a sanctuary and caring for the first 500 bears for the first year is more than $3 million.

Some consider the agreement with Animals Asia to be nothing more than a public relations maneuver, intended to mitigate the fact that the Chinese government is clearly committed to bear-bile farming and is, in fact, pushing to legitimize the industry. Critics point out that the farms from which the bears would be taken are merely the worst of the hundreds operating in the country. Furthermore, they say, the bears being turned over to Animals Asia are old bears who are no longer profitable.

The director of Animals Asia Jill Robinson, MBE, agrees that the animals being released into her custody are but "a small percentage" of the thousands suffering on bear farms in China. But she points out that, "They are also animals which have spent anywhere up to 22 years behind bars and desperately need help in the form of extensive veterinary care, physiotherapy and integration. For the first time, large numbers of farmed bears are, at last, seeing their freedom. This, and our work with the Chinese government and related authorities, is keeping bear farming in the public eye, while working continuously towards the goal of ending the practice once and for all."

The Moon Bear Rescue Center has confiscated 187 bears, and are set to reach their goal of rescuing 500 bears by the 2008 Olympics. While 500 bears may represent a small percentage of the total number of bears on farms in China, the Moon Bear Rescue Center is a focal point for education and awareness on the issue, attracting a tremendous amount of local and international interest. People all over China have been shocked by reports in the media on the bear farming industry. The bears surrendered to the rescue center come in all ages and condition. Perhaps one of the most important (and often overlooked) roles of the sanctuary is the compilation of veterinary and scientific evidence which proves beyond a shadow of a doubt that bear farming is inhumane and hurts wild bear populations as well. Through our Education Village at the Moon Bear Rescue Center, Animals Asia is advancing the concept not only of bear welfare, but animal welfare as a whole, on a grand-scale.

Wednesday, October 10, 2007

i will try to catch you up to date...


Wednesday 10/10/2007:

We traveled east across the river once again; racing along the interstate passing bicycles and scooters, looking at the construction going up in the countryside. I attempt to shoot out the window of the van but it just doesn't work the way I would like for it to - too obvious I am using a long lens in attempts to get some sort of interesting composition.

After about a 20 minute drive out of the center of the city, we turn into a construction site. The small parking lot is surrounded by apartment buildings. Though, a better way of describing them would be make shift dorm rooms, at 2 levels, to house the workers brought in from middle China and the countryside to help build up and out Shanghai.

Turning into a lot, of steel scaffolding and green nets covering the beginning of the high rises, muddied fields and men with bright orange hard hats. We follow Bill, Jason's brother, to the building that he has designed and we step in for me to take some architectural shots of the progress. Of course, its a repeat of the time we were at that lot and I heard the record stop and the needle scratch from one end to the other.

Stares, gawks, and just holding onto my image. Jason and I step outside to meander around and for me to snap more pictures. A group of 3 men walk towards me just staring, neck turns and its just too obvious for me not to smile and say hello, in mandarin. They stop, smile with a curious grin and approach me. The nod and mumble a slight hello in return.

Jason asks them if I may take their picture and they don't understand him. He realizes that they are from middle China and have a different dialect, but finally we get the point across and they agree. I snap only 2 pictures, and then my memory card is having problems from when I renamed the folders after shooting the wedding. Only 2 images will have to do.

They continue to work with stares, more men coming over to take a look. Smiles, snickers, and just blatant stares. The group of young men lining up against the wall are staring and I go over to greet them and I smile, and point to my camera. They shake their heads no, I respect peoples wishes and thank them and walk away.

Working like this is exhausting. Not so much work, but its exhausting not being able to verbally communicate and then being examined all the time. I get breaks when I am in the actual city, but overall its just plain, downright, tiring.

Tomorrow, Thursday, we leave for Heilongjiang - a 3 hour flight to the middle of nowhere. We will be close to the North Korean border and its suppose to be cold.

Monday, October 8, 2007

a complete outsider

Saturday we ventured to the outskirts of town. Its an area of about 3 square miles of stalls/shops that sell the goods from factories throughout China. Families move to this area to run the shops and sell the goods. Down the alleys, you can see the children playing, food being prepared, young girls getting their hair washed by a parent.

I was probably the only "lauwei" within a 4 mile radius. Lauwei is literally translated to "old outsider" and is somewhat of a derogatory term. Any guide book will tell you that it means "foreigner" - thats being nice about it. I heard this term over and over again...I usually looked back and waived, to either stunned faces or laughing. To some, I may have been the first actual white person, to others, a very rare occasion.

Taking pictures was a new experience for me. Usually, for example, in NYC China Town...they throw their hand in front of me letting me know they don't want me to take their picture. Here, I don't know if they were too much in shock or didn't know what these pictures are sometimes used for.

One child raised his toy gun at me, right at my face, I in return aimed my camera at him - he withdrew, I fired.

Another group of children were playing with a large pair of binoculars. One little boy watched me through them until I was about 4 feet away - aimed at my large eyes only making sure attention to hopefully match his through the glass lenses.

At one point, we are walking through the stalls and I see ahead of me a girl of nearly 5 or 6 pat her Father on the back. He turned, she pointed, I smiled. I walked up to her and her sister and pointed at my camera and smiled, gesturing to take their picture. I threw a quick glance to her father to catch his impression and he was all smiles. She knelt down next to her sister, gave me a gentle Peace sign with her right hand and the other child just looked at me in slight confusion. I snapped one picture, stepped up to show them and thanked them, "xiexie". They both stared at me, one with a large smile...it was one of my most exhilarating experiences as a photographer. I have grown up, this experience is the most wonderful of my entire life.

What I saw for those few hours, I don't know if I could ever describe in words. The images stuck in my head bring such an emotion to surface. Families, more than likely, moved from the Rural lands of China, to work in a tiny stall to sell items from factories. Is it a better way of life? Are they happy? What Jason and I were amazed by was the commotion, the amount of people, bikes/cars/trucks/walking - and there were no car wrecks. Especially since about 80 percent of the drivers weren't even paying attention to the road and staring at my face. Honestly, I am still working out emotionally and mentally these feelings. Never, as a white girl, have received so many stares, so much finger pointing, so much loud discussion of my presence. To a point it made me feel special, but on the other side of things, a distant outsider that would never be allowed to know the truth that exists within the culture.

Returning to the city after that adventure, the stares are minimal in comparison, if anything.
I am lucky on my travels to be staying with Jason's brother, who knows Shanghai, and takes us to strange places like this. A typical traveler to Shanghai would never have seen what I did - on my second day here no less. It has not even been a week and my mind has been blown. My look on life, happiness, struggles, work, etc has all been blown up and I do not plan on making any repairs until I get back to the States. KOKO, Keep On Keepin On.

The center of the city is not really that much different from a place such as Manhattan or even Brooklyn. I get a few stares, I get a few chuckles with my awful Mandarin - its emotions I have never experienced before. I peer into homes, which in any other American city would be considered run down store fronts. The way of life, the simplicity, the acceptance of this is the way it is. I feel like a fat, spoiled, lazy Meiguoren here, though I know have my own visual proof that America is the richest country in the world.

It is 8 am in NYC right now...it is 8 pm right now, here at this table, in the center of Shanghai, while Jason sleeps on the couch.

Pictures will be posted later, as I am not sure how to handle them - because there are places/people that would love some of the images I captured. I must find a way to fund another trip here, or at least pay off the dept that this is going to incur. Much love America!

Friday, October 5, 2007

WARNING WARNING WARNING

cHINA = LIMITED WEB USAGE

my blog is blocked from here...i suppose "they" don't want shanghai reading the ramblings of a Meiguoren. so, for all comments, i will not be able to view until I get back into the states...but please feel free to leave them.

24 hours of travelling

items lost in within 24 hours of travel:
-book of short stories
-pair of contact lenses in case

Ailments:
-swollen feet and calves, it looks as if I have a mean case of gout (sp?) and my feet feel tingly and fall asleep while sitting or walking.
-intestinal problems.

Jason and I got to hang in the VIP lounge in Hong Kong since our flights were all delayed and postponed. We ate and ate...mmmmmm, we were sad to leave.

Flying into the Shanghai airport, the sites a half a mile in the air were spectacular. Huts and factories, apartments across from the factories, parts of factories looking like shacks and such.

I watched a woman in a periwinkle outfit sweep the sidewalk last night, making nice piles of discarded items in the gutter of the street. While 3 men squatted around a bike, searching for the hole in the tire tube. Bicycles and skooters whizzing bye. Kindly introduced to the doorman of the building who lives under the stairs - his "apartment" being roughly the size of a full size bed.

Today, we went through markets, I catch the turning heads to get a look at me every now and again. Sensing Jason's frustrations for me not understanding 99.9 percent of any language. I drank fresh pressed Sugar Cane juice and walked through the market of second hand electronics and boot leg cell phones, being careful not to bump into the small boy taking a pee pee in the storm drain in the middle of the walkway.

My feet are swollen, I have slight jet lag, so I will rest.

Blogger is strange, the language has appeared in Chinese so this is a hint to me that this all may monitored more than I had previously thought. I have already read warnings in the airport to Bloggers....

Wednesday, October 3, 2007

far far away

Jason and I will be leaving from Seattle in a couple of hours. Accept the apology for not writing last week, but I was in San Francisco soaking in the sun and crashing my 5 day old notebook computer. Shooting a wedding, and tending to Jason shooting people and being shot.

The wedding was beautiful, and I didn't suffer any sea sickness except for a little burp'iness.

We slept on the floor at my dear friend Brent's and Jason's body still hurts from sleeping "all Jackie Chan style and shit". Yes, I was awakened early in the morning with this comment. A chuckle to help me fall asleep.

Seattle is gorgeous, what else can I say.

Tuesday, October 2, 2007

san francisco


Can you feel it, see it, hear it today?
If you cant, then it doesnt matter anyway
You will never understand it cuz it happens too fast
And it feels so good, its like walking on glass
Its so cool, its so hip, its alright
Its so groovy, its outta sight
You can touch it, smell it, taste it so sweet
But it makes no difference cuz it knocks you off your feet
You want it all but you cant have it
Its cryin, bleedin, lying on the floor
So you lay down on it and you do it some more
Youve got to share it, so you dare it
Then you bare it and you tear it
You want it all but you cant have it
Its in your face but you cant grab it
Its alive, afraid, a lie, a sin
Its magic, its tragic, its a loss, its a win
Its dark, its moist, its a bitter pain
Its sad it happened and its a shame
You want it all but you cant have it
Its in your face but you cant grab it
What is it?
Its it
What is it? ...

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

film film and more film

In preparations for the trip, I just completed a film order a little over $400. It will be shipped from NYC to Seattle, so I can only hope it doesn't get X Rayed a bazillion times.

One of the photographer's I assist, had given me some film to practice shooting my Mamiya 7. Today, the Hassid (sp ?) Jews were still celebrating whatever they do this time of year and still had some chicken crates out on the corner of Myrtle and Bedford. Yes, crates, with live chickens - they had them out Sunday early evening, and now its Tuesday afternoon. As I am walking to the laundromat, I shot a couple of frames of the poor things, yet I think I may have gotten some bird poo in my eye.

I leave Friday for San Francisco...farewell New York!!!!!!!!!!

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

...and the return to blogger

do you remember the days of disheveled.org or confusedandmisled.blogspot?
well, i have returned, but not as a hopeless and discouraged early 20 something.

this site will be devoted to sharing my journey halfway across the world.